Fez Travel Guide

Fez (or Fes if you’re following Arabic spelling) is the third largest city in Morocco and part of the UNESCO. Fez is set in the lowlands between the Rif and Middle Atlas mountain ranges in northern Morocco. Located just over 300 miles from Marrakesh.

Fez is one of the four imperial cities of Morocco, alongside Rabat, Meknes, and Marrakesh.

The city has a distinct, traditional charm. High walls surrounding the Old Town medina, protecting one of the best preserved medieval cities in the world. Fez and its medina is a barrage on the senses.

Ancients mosques and medersas/madrassas (Islamic schools) are all around the city although non-muslims are not allowed inside, from the outside, you can have a glance of the splendour of the Islamic architecture.

In Fez, I loved the chaos, the smells, the markets and the food. Although it can be also overwhelming and mentally exhausting, especially during the hottest months. Fez is known as the country’s cultural, spiritual, and intellectual heartland.

The old Medina

Fez’s medina is a maze of narrow little streets lined with shops. The medina’s labyrinth can be fun to get lost in. Although the medina in Fez is not as hard to navigate as other medinas across Morocco. The medina has 2 main streets running in a loop, so if you stick to those, you’ll always find your way back to the Blue Gate.

The medina is a great place, though often crowded by locals and tourists, so stay on guard as pickpockets are pretty common.

Bab Boujeloud – Blue Gate

Bab Boujeloud (Bab Bou Jeloud), commonly known as the “Blue Gate,” serves as the principal entrance to the old Medina.

The Grande Porte Bab Boujloud is famous for its beautiful ornate blue mosaics and on the other side, it is decorated green.  The blue side of the gate represents the colour of the city Fes.  The green side of the gate, which faces the Medina is green to represent the colour of Islam.

Medina

There are 3 main areas, Fes el Bali (the oldest part and the world’s largest car-free urban space), Fes Jdid (“new” part of the city, which is still a few hundred years old), and the modern section of Ville Nouvelle with its palm-tree-lined boulevards, built in the French colonial era. The Ville Nouvelle is not a remarkable place at all means unless you want to grab a bite to eat somewhere a bit more modern.

Stroll the Talaa Kebeera

Talaa Kebeera is the largest “street” in Fez. It begins shortly after Bab Boujeloud (Blue Gate) and continues on through the much of the medina. Many different shops, souks and sights are located just off this main artery.

Medersa Al Attarine and Medersa Bou Inania

The Medersa al-Attarine (Islamic school) is located next to the Qarawiyyin mosque in the middle of the medina, next to the spice and perfume market. Is one of the most beautiful buildings in the Medina of Fez.

The Medersa Bou Inania is one of the greatest examples of the Merenid architecture in the 14th century and is one of the few religious places that non-Muslims can visit in Morocco.

Tanneries

You will probably hear people asking you if you want directions to the tannery. Just remember, that on warm days, you won’t need directions. I assure you can fell the smell from distance, so just follow your nose 🙂

If you want to have a look at the tanneries the only way to do it is through one of the shops, there’s no other way. That means you need to “handle” the vendors. (I personally didn’t have any problems I paid 10DHR and no one tried to sell me anything, I guess I was lucky).

Just a heads up in case you don’t know the tanneries is the place where workers transform animal skins into brightly-coloured leathers by soaking them in vats.

University of Al-Qarawiyyin

The Al-Qarawiyyin (al-Karaouine) Mosque and University are considered by some the oldest university in the world and is one of the largest mosques in Africa.

Fondouk el-Nejjarine, Museum

The Fondouk el-Nejjarine or “Wood Museum” is a museum where you can learn about the woodwork indigenous to Morocco, the tools used, as well as a collection of wood and cabinet work  (20dhs).

If you don’t want to visit the museum you can just contemplate the Nejjarine Square, a beautiful square dotted with Andalusian-style architecture from the 18th century.

Henna Souk

The Henna Souk is a nicely shaded souk cosied up beneath a couple of large trees. Here they sell pottery and traditional cosmetic products.

Merenid Tombs

The Merenid Tombs are located just outside the medina. To get there you can walk (15 minutes) or get a taxi.

The giant tombs sit on the hill above Fes and offer a fantastic view of the city.

The Mellah – Jewish Quarter

The Jewish Quarter of Fez is the oldest in Morocco and has beautiful ornate balconies and wrought-iron windows lining the street.

Strolling around

You can visit the main attractions, but there is nothing better than losing yourself in the city. Strolling around alleys and narrow streets finding out the hidden magic of Fez.

photography – all rights reserved – Ana Rocha

Marrakech Travel Guide

Marrakech is a wonderful and fascinating city to travel to, but the hustle and bustle, noise, traffic, heat, and the crowds, take some time to get used to.

People have different feelings about the city, same love it others hate it. The intense heat in the Medina, the intimidating nature of some men, pollution, constant harassment, rubbish everywhere, and animal exploitation are between the main reasons,  I can definitely see both sides and no place is only good.

I personally had a great experience, most likely because most people thought my partner was Morrocan 🙂

Marrakech is one of the most visited Moroccan cities and is also called ‘’the red city’’ because of the colour of its walls.

Marrakech is a city of small paths, amazing crafts and colourful atmosphere, is known for its markets, food scene, riads (traditional accommodation around a courtyard) and medina, the heart of the city.

Lost and found in Marrakech, the medina and the souks

The Medina is the ancient walled city that dates from the 12th century, a place to get lost walking the winding streets. All Moroccan cities have an older part where the medinas are located.

Visit the medina first thing in the morning is great, just before everything opens, so you can feel the city waking up. Also, make sure you get off the main streets and explore the hundreds of alleys without shops.

The medina is a place for selling and buying all kinds of products, and their streets are packed with shops and street vendors. The Marrakesh medina is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985.

The souks of Marrakech are messy, chaotic, colourful, smelly but kind of fantastic at the same time. I loved walking around watching life going by. The souks sell a variety of items such as carpets and rugs, traditional Muslim attire, used clothes, livestock, and fresh produce. Haggling is still a very important part of the trade in the souks.

Unlike the medina, the souk is a temporary structure that goes up in the morning and down later in the day, located in an empty field.

When you walk around, leaving the more touristic routes, you can find markets where you will see locals buying fresh ingredients. 

The alleyways and narrow turns seem to go on and on, they are packed with the busyness of the city so as the streets are usually packed, it’s the perfect place for pickpockets. Don’t be too complacent.

The top tip here is, if you don’t wish to buy anything, don’t ask neither answer. Simply keep walking and smile.  Also knowing two simple Arabic words can get you a long way: La= No, Choukran=thank you. 

Jemaa el-Fnaa 

Somehow Jemaa el-Fnaa comes on top of most websites and guides as a must place to go in Marrakech.

Jemaa el-Fnaa it’s a very busy market in the main square packed with stalls selling local wares/food, musicians, acrobats, and storyteller. Is quite an aggressive place for tourists, in the way you can’t really walk around without being disturbed, the harassment is constant, so get ready to feel overwhelmed to start. 

There are also snake charmers and men with monkeys chained to them trying to get people to pay for a photo. The animal tourism here is cruel so please don’t encourage it by paying to take pictures with the animals. As you know we create the demand..

I would still recommend you to go but lower your expectation…wasn’t my favourite part of Marrakech at all.  You can always go up to one of the bars and cafes overlooking the square and spend some time watching all of the antics going on below.

Some people say that if you skip Djemaa El-Fna you miss the soul of the city unless hardcore harassment is Marrakech’s souls it’s hard for me to agree with that statement.

Be aware of pickpocketers at Jemaa al-Fna square.

Enjoy the calm of the parks
Cyber Park Arsat Moulay Abdeslam

Just outside of the medina is the Cyber Park Arsat Moulay Abdeslam, that dates back from the 18th century,  a set of beautiful gardens with fountains and plants. A perfect place for a walk around and relax.

Jardin Majorelle (Majorelle garden)

The Majorelle gardens are located about 500 meters from the medina, behind the central bus station. It’s a charming place, wrapped by a water canal, with stunning cactus, exotic plants, palm trees, a lily pond, and a small bamboo forest.  Although this was not my favourite, I like the gardens to be tranquil and peaceful, and this one is usually pretty busy.

The entrance fee is 70 Dirhams (£5.50) per person plus an extra 30 Dirham to visit the Berber Museum.

Le Jardin secret

Le Jardin secret is a beautiful private medina garden revived for the 21st century that displays an exotic and traditional Islamic garden. (50Dirhams ~ £4.10)

Menara gardens

This isn’t really a garden, but acres of olive trees and an empty pavilion in the back. Not really worthy of 70 MAD entrance fee at all.

Bahia Palace

The Bahia Palace was built in the 19th Century, and it offers some quiet away from the hustle and bustle of the Medina. The palace has beautiful courtyards and rooms with magnificent ceilings. A must see if you like architecture as there’s lots of intricate tile, paint and woodwork.

The admission ticket is 70 Dirhams (£5.50) to go inside and walk around the grounds.

El Badi Palace

The Badi Palace is in bad shape nowadays but it offers fantastic views of Marrakech from the terrace where you can see the Atlas Mountains on a clear day.

It cost 70 Dirhams (£5.50) to visit the vast palace ruins, with its large pools and orange trees.

Koutoubia Mosque

Koutoubia Mosque is located right by Jemaa el-Fnaa and is the largest mosque in Marrakech. Unfortunately, you can also see it from outside and walk around the gardens unless you’re Muslim.  This place is quite beautiful after sunset when the light bouncing off the mosque.

There’s a public garden right behind Koutobia called Parc Lalla Hasna, is a great place to photograph the mosque and the minaret.

Ali Ben Youssef Medersa

(Closed for renovation works until 2020)

Ben Youssef Madrasa is a Quranic learning centre that was once the largest in North Africa and remains nowadays among the most splendid. The inscription over the entrance reads, “You who enter my door, may your highest hopes be exceeded”.

Saadian Tombs

The Saadian Tombs, located in the south of the medina, contain the remains of the sultan Ahmad al-Mansur and members of his family. 

The structure dates from the late 16th century while interesting, the tombs can be very crowded with visitors. Some ornaments are quite impressive, reminding slightly Alhambra.

The tombs were built with marble imported from Italy and they have beautiful stucco work made with cedar wood.

Bab Agnaou

Bab Agnaou is a beautiful getaway to the old city built in the 12th century, right next to the Saadian Tombs.

The gateway used to have a stone that had a blueish hue in the beginning but that the desert sands turned into the reddish colour.

La Mamounia Hotel

My suggestions are not to stay at the La Mamounia Hotel, where the room price goes at £400 a night, but instead just to visit the most historic and famous hotel in Marrakesh.

Wondering around Marrakech

Walking around without a plan is wonderful, you will stumble on amazing markets where locals are buying fresh ingredients; stunning doors, alleys, and picturesque mosques. 

Landing in Marrakesh can be a bit overwhelming in the beginning, and tourist scams are far too common, be aware and enjoy. Find here the 15 essential tips for visiting Marrakesh  

photography – all rights reserved – Ana Rocha

15 essential tips for visiting Marrakesh  

Landing in Marrakech can be a shock and you are likely to feel somehow intimidated…. for many reasons. If you don’t know what to expect and how to get prepared you might see your experience ruined.

And the truth is Marrakech is a wonderful and fascinating city that you can enjoy fully despite the hustle and bustle, noise, traffic, heat, crowds, pollution, constant harassment, rubbish everywhere, and animal exploitation… 

It’s normal to feel overwhelmed in the first few minutes, but you will find out that this is all part of Marrakech charm.

Here are my best 15 tips for Marrakech, as well as advice that I consider important to know before landing here.

15 tips for Marrakech
  1. If you don’t wish to buy anything, don’t answer. Simply keep walking and smile.
  2. Hustlers and touts are part of the medina experience, ignore it.
  3. Respect the culture and dress appropriately (to avoid unwanted attention)
  4. The App Maps Me works better than google maps when offline…and you can also download the free Marrakech Riad Travel Guide app to use as an offline GPS but still expect to get lost.
  5. Stay alert. Be aware of pickpocketers and scams (around photos, fossils, carpets, leather goods and the most common one is the “follow me” scam where a young guy says he can lead you to your hotel/destination and then he wants an insane amount of money for leading you) Always be vigilant! Don´t keep your money or important documents in places of easy access.
  6. If you want to buy something try to know the prices and bargain hard.. but politely. 
  7. Don’t trust anyone that offers advice without being asked, and ignore anyone saying that the road/place you are going is closed, just walk.
  8. Don’t explore the medina at night by yourself, unless you know your way around it really well.
  9. Avoid the hottest months (July, August) and Ramadan
  10. Use a water bottle with a filter to avoid buying plastic bottles. 
  11. Avoid the tanneries.
  12. Have cash with you, it’s cash, not the card that reigns supreme. But its relatively easy to find an ATMs (to get an idea of how much things cost in Morocco, take a look at this post).  Carrying small notes is also helpful, it’s common to hear them saying that they don’t have change.
  13. The officially spoken language of Marrakech is Arabic. But French is widespread so work on your french. Also knowing two simple Arabic words can get you a long way: La= No, Choukran=thank you. 
  14. Eat, where locals do, because they know where to get the best food from. 
  15. The vast majority of hotels/riads have internet. But if you’re interested in having internet all the time buy a SIM card at the airport. I paid €10 for 7GB unlimited calls and texts.

Tourist scams are far too common in Marrakesh, there will always be people who see tourists as easy cash-laden targets to be taken advantage of. So just learn about the scams to avoid them.

So, now you should be well prepared for your Marrakech trip!

Find here the full travel guide to Marrakech.

Do you have any other tips or questions? Have you been to Marrakech? What other tips would you add? Simply leave a comment, I would love to hear from you 🙂

photography – all rights reserved – Ana Rocha