Borneo Archives • Cook the Beans

A Vegan in Sabah _ Kota Kinabalu

Kota Kinabalu, was actually a very pleasant surprise, through my stay I easily found really great places to eat.

I just need to start to say that KK has countless markets, all selling fresh fruit, juices, coconut water and lots of other local vegan delicacies.

I had no trouble at eating at the street markets either, the food was okay, nothing too extraordinary but I appreciated that they could always veganaise something for me.

I’m going to start with my very favourite place of all, the Vege Garden.

The only reason I didn’t have all my meals there was just because I wasn’t always in the city and they are only open till 5pm.

This small eaterie located between an Orange Convenience store and a Tourism Operator, and it’s part of Wisma Sabah mall. the food is just amazing and it’s very affordable.

The owner is super friendly and is always happy to give you some advice about the food he has for the day, and if they have run out of food they will arrange something for you. I loved this place so much that I had all my breakfasts there, a few lunches and even a couple of meals as a snack 😀 😀

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The Liew Chai Vegetarian has really delicious options of mock meat, and its very affordable.

If you are not a mock meat fan they also have a good selection of vegetables and tofu.

This eatery is located in the middle of the food court on the lower ground floor of the Centrepoint Mall.

Beyond Veggie is located in the Suria Sabah Shopping Mall. Its a bit more sophisticated and modern and more expensive than the other ones a mention. Has a huge variety of dishes and desserts and the food is tasty.

Among all the food, the most surprising things we found on KK was the coconut jelly/pudding that is served in a coconut shell with the flesh of the coconut, I truly enjoyed it.

The green caviar (called also by Latok or sea grapes), that is a type of seaweed found in Sabah and Philippines. I found it at the Night market.

Interesting enough for the first time in my travellers life I just found many stalls selling fermented drinks and herbal teas with fungus.

Other dishes we had:

Click here if you want to know what to do and visit at Kota Kinabalu and here if you are planning to visit the islands.

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Sabah – Kota Kinabalu

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At kuala Lumpur airport we got a flight to Kota Kinabalu. From the airport, there are public buses (5RM) to town. Kota Kinabalu or simply called KK is the capital of Sabah, located in the Island of Borneo on the west coast.

Borneo is all about its green lush rainforests, wild jungles, wild animals, high mountains and countless caves, but for me, Sabah was mostly about its paradisiac beaches, small towns, villages, markets and the food. We missed intentionally all the sanctuaries, jungle trails and natural reserves because we did it all in the other part of Borneo – Sarawak. Sarawak is less touristic, unspoiled and cheaper for those kind of activities.

We arrived at night and I got instantly impressed with all the night markets, lights, smells and busy vibe. During the day-time KK is still picturesque (not as much as Kuching), but still has its own beauty. The best way to know KK is by foot, so walk around and allow you to lose yourself in the city.

I really love markets and KK doesn’t disappoint, at least in number 🙂 The Central Market – ‘Pasar Besar‘ – its a great place to explore KK’s culture, it has countless vegetables and fruit stalls and an area that sells homemade delicacies and even fresh tabaco. Markets are the life and blood of a city, so they are always a nice place to go if you want to feel the local culture. Sellers aren’t pushy at all so you can just wonder around seeing all the different stalls. Behind this one, they have a Fish Market the ‘Pasar Ikan’. Nearby there’s the Pasar Filipino, that is basically a Salted Fish Market, and a small Fruit and vegetables Market.

Just because I’m already talking about markets, why not to carry on?! 🙂

The Gaya Street Market opens on Sunday mornings and finishes by 1p.m. is full of souvenirs, crafts, trinkets, clothings and lots of live animals for sale what is very upsetting. Its bustling crowded so the key is to get there early, but don’t expect anything extraordinary. The food and natural medicine products are interesting but that’s about it.

The Handicraft Market has a few workers seating outside sewing, inside all the stalls are selling the same, so nothing special.

The night market, sets up at around 5 pm or so and is located beside the handicraft Market and beneath Le Méridien hotel, and it has two main sections – one where they sell fresh ingredients, and another where you can eat. The food stalls are more focused on seafood than anything else. Obviously, we don’t eat seafood but we eat seaweed 🙂 They’re not like the dried ones I’m used to buy at the supermarket these have a soft and succulent texture and are called sea grapes, sea caviar or Latok. Despite the seaweed that I found extremely ‘exotic’ they have other plant-based dishes and delicious treats like fresh fruit and juice, fried bananas, pancakes filled with peanut butter and sweet donuts.

KK Waterfront, it’s a very sophisticated part of KK and nice for a walk to the mall’s ocean front mostly during sunset, where boats are docked for the night. Tanjung Aru Beach, it’s a great place to walk along the beach and to observe the sunset too, (bus from of City Hall or Wawasan Plaza (4RM))

The City Mosque, is picturesque on the outside, again mostly during the sunset but sometimes they don’t allow non religious people in, but that’s fine because there’s nothing much to see there. Just admire the building and the beautiful lake around it, sometimes looks like the mosque is floating on water. If you are at KK for a short period, give this one a miss.

Because we didn’t want to do any organized tour we rented a motorbike at ‘gogo’ for 45RM, we ride up the north coast, visiting a few villages and beaches. It was a lovely day, without plans, so we drove with the wind and stopped as many times as we wanted.

Borneo is truly incredible, If you’re in Southeast Asia, don’t forget to visit!

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Tunku Abdul Rahman marine Park _ Sabah _ island of Borneo

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You are absolutely right when you think about Borneo’s lush rainforests, wild jungles, orangutang, probiotic monkeys, mountains and caves, but Sabah has, even more, to offer, from its amazing reefs, marine wildlife, paradisiac beaches to the pristine waters.

From Kota Kinabalu you can easily access the Tunku Abdul Rahman marine park, that is composed of 5 islands: Sapi, Mamutik, Manukan, Gaya and Sulug. I will leave the feedback for the ones I have been to.

You have two ways to reach the islands, you can get a boat trespassing the central market (Pasar Besar) where you will find a small smelly jetty, used mostly by locals (and me ?) or at Jesselton Point Ferry Terminal. Both have the same prices. Before going make sure you have plenty of water, fruit and snacks with you.

?Pulau Manukan (10RM conservation fee)

Can be a bit crowded near the place you pay the entry fee, just walk a bit and you will find an empty beach. We tried to do snorkelling but the visibility was poor that day, but we still had a great lazy day, laying down, swimming on the warm water and trekking thought the nature trails. It has touristic facilities, an extensive shore and many monitor lizards.

?Pulau Mamutik (10RM conservation fee) Mamutik is the smallest one, and my favourite. After paying the entry fee, just walk a bit to find an empty paradisiac beach with clear cristal waters great to do snorkelling.

?Pulau Gaya Its really peaceful and less crowded than the others and it’s covered in a tropical forest. In the island, there are small water villages, with mosques, schools and simple shops built on stilts.

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? Sarawak – island of Borneo

? Sabah – island of Borneo (soon) + Tunku Abdul Rahman marine Park

Sarawak – island of Borneo

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Sarawak Borneo will amaze you with its culture and natural beauty. The Island of Borneo has probably one of the richest and diverse ecosystems I ever saw, but unfortunately, many of its forests have been lost for oil palm, putting wildlife and people in danger.

I started my trip in the capital Kuching and I used bus, boat, motorbike, bicycle, and minivans to travel, these are the places I visited :

? Kuching / Santubong peninsula / Bako National Park / Semenggoh Nature Reserve/ Bau / Kubah National Park

Kuching

Explore Kuching and it’s an old colonial charm by foot, losing yourself in its magnificent streets from china town, Indian neighbourhood and the riverfront. I highly recommend you to visit the museums they are really good, look up for street art and don’t miss the sunset on the riverfront.

To visit the other side of the river, get one of the local boats (1RM each side), go for a walk, enjoy the view and try a traditional Kek Lapis (layer cake).

Santubong Peninsula

In Kuching, you can rent a motorbike in the city for 40RM a day to explore the small villages around including Santubong Peninsula, a nice quiet town with great views and beaches.

I went to the Matang wildlife centre but I don’t recommend it at all, they may do a good job at rescuing and helping the animals but they are all in small cages, I found it quite depressing.

Bako National Park

We got the red bus nº1 stopped in front of the open market in Kuching to Bako National Park (3.50RM) the park entry is 20 RM, and the boat 40RM both ways (runs from 8 to 15h). You definitely need to spend at least a day there and do a couple of trails. The park as beautiful mangrove swamp, luxurious rainforest, streams, waterfalls, and if you’re lucky (like me ) you may see proboscis monkeys in their native habitats. This park has incredible biodiversity, which includes almost every vegetation type in Borneo.

Semenggoh Nature Reserve

We went to Semenggoh Nature Reserve to see semi-wild orangutans in their natural habitat for that we got a bus from Kuching (4RM) at 7:20 from the open market stop. Once in the reserve, you need to walk to the feeding point, the entry is 10RM. Be aware that you may not be lucky enough to see them. They have 2 hour-long feedings, 9am to 10am and from 3pm to 4pm.

Bau

Next stop was Bau, the bus from Kuching takes an hour, the bus is an old one so expect a sweaty journey (4.5RM). Bau is a small clean and organised town, has a good market, a food court and a Chinese temple that deserves a visit.

Once in Bau we realised that was difficult to find public transports to take us to the different caves so we started walking and hitch-hiked. Hitchhiking was safe and we meet really nice and interesting people. We visited the fairy cave (5RM), a really nice and impressive open mountain cave, no light needed. then we took another lift to the wind cave Nature reserve (5RM) for this one you need a torch, there is plenty to see and lots and lots of bats.

If you plan to come back to Kuching by bus, the last one departs at 3:20, but never trust the bus schedules 🙂 they often leave early.

Kubah National Park

To go from Kuching to Kubah National Park, get the bus K21 (4RM) and its an hour ride. The entry is 20RM. The park is gorgeous with lots of hills, ups and downs.

I personally found it quite tiring, so get your legs ready. The park offers several trails from one hour to several hours, you can’t buy food or water in the park, so bring something.

I did a couple of trails including the trail to the waterfall where you can get refreshed and visited the frog pond.

The last bus the Kuching is at 1:30 but if it doesn’t appear you will have minibus passing and you can ask them to stop (5RM)

Sarawak is not known for its beaches, I went to Damai beach but I don’t recommend it at all.

Information and testimony about being a vegan in Sarawak – A vegan in Sarawak

a Vegan in Sarawak – island of Borneo

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Sarawak‘s food is just amazing, and the only problem you will have being a vegan is not to gain 10kg 🙂

Kuching

?Sin Wei Tong cafe – has a vegetarian stall, great food around 5RM per dish. some dishes have an egg but can request without.

?Shun son yen – vegetarian restaurant by the kilo, with delicious food and fresh juices I paid around 15RM for my meal. Make sure you go early to have all the options still available because the food goes quickly. You can try a bit of everything.

? water front – there are food stalls and restaurants that have great vegan options.

?Zhen Xiang Zhai, delicious food and a good place to try the Sarawak laksa, they close at 3pm. A meal with drinks will cost around 15RM you can choose from the buffet or order off their menu.

?open marker – a lovely local place to explore.

?Food fair, at the time you are visiting Kuching check if they have a food fair, they have all kinds of food, but be prepared for a crowded place.

Bau

?Bau food court– One of the food stalls serves exclusively great vegan food but other stalls still have a few options, have a look and ask around.

Other food in the region

? Seri Muka – Malaysian sweet with rice with pandas leaves

? Steamed Buns – easily find any food markets and street stalls. They have vegetarian fillings like – sweet been past, Kaya, Pandan or black sesame paste.